Step by Step

There were 20 days of walking, one rest day and 230 miles (370 kilometers) in distance covered from San Miniato in Tuscany to Rome in Lazio. We are so fortunate that we are physically healthy and our knees and other joints rose to the challenge. 

I am so grateful for David who was willing to join me on this journey and who never complained when I stopped to take a photograph….well maybe just once or twice he did. I am appreciative of everyone who showed us kindness and support along the way, especially the guard at the Vatican Museum who led us through a special door for our “private” visit to the Capella Sistina. Thank you to all the Italians who let me speak Italian with them…slowly. 

I loved walking this ancient route and learning about the Etruscans and the early Romans. Every day, we stepped into chapels and sanctuaries and cathedrals and marveled at how they could have been built before cranes and machinery. We saw priceless frescos on walls of little churches in deserted villages. I lit candles and said prayers and enjoyed the quiet. We had lots of time to think and reflect but also time to talk together and enjoy the view. This journey was a gift that will always be remembered.

Here are photos of my credentials with the stamps we collected along the way:

Rome - the Eternal City

The last day of walking began on the outskirts of Rome along the congested roadway of Via Cassia with overflowing garbage dumpsters and obstructed sidewalks. We took the advice of our fellow hikers and took the local train filled with high school students for about 5 miles which allowed us rejoin the trail at a urban park called Monte Mario. It is a large nature preserve that led us to an overlook with a panoramic view of Rome. Even though it was our first morning of gloomy weather, it was a beautiful sight.

We enjoyed the walk down into the city, walking through the neighborhoods that lead up to the walls of Vatican City. And there it was - St Peter’s Square with the giant Basilica and colonnades greeting us. It was midday and there was a sparse crowd so we took our photos and enjoyed a relaxing lunch at a sidewalk restaurant. 

It was rather fitting that our hotel in Rome was a former monastery attached to a large church. The building dates back to the 10th century and is currently undegoing archeological study. 

The next day, we returned to St Peter’s and went to the Sacristy office to receive our Testimonium document for completing our Pilgrimage on the Via Francigena. We had started our day with an early entrance to the Vatican Museum which allowed us to be virtually alone in the Sistine Chapel for a few minutes. (Okay, there were some guards and a cleaner in there with us too.)  The soaring dome of the cathedral, the art masterpieces, the relics everywhere you look - it was all a little overwhelming. I need to have some time to let it all soak in.

Seems like every sign points to Rome.

      Monte Mario Reserve Park overlooking Rome.

Photo taken by our fellow pellegrino Michel as we approached the overlook of Rome.

The view of Rome and St. Peter’s Basilica from Monte Mario.

            Our relief of arriving at St. Peter’s Square.

Looking up at the dome, designed by Michealangelo.

                    The Swiss Guards at the Vatican 

    Photo taken from the dome looking toward the altar.

  Receiving our Testimonium for completing our walk.

My Testimonium.

A glimpse of the Sistine Chapel before entering.

Our evening walk from Trastevere to our hotel.