Today’s walk from Viterbo to Vetralla was described simply as “an easy walk of 17 km which runs on a flat plateau”. So we were quite surprised about a half hour into it when the road became a canyon with steep walls soaring straight up on both sides. And yes, the occasional car or service truck was driving on this same narrow, shoulder-less road. It went on for a over a mile and at times almost seemed like we were in a Cathedral of stone.
This is an area called Via della Cava or “excavated road” and was created by the Etruscans 2500 years ago. Archeologists think that the roads were cut through the soft rock called tufa and may have led to the nearby necropoli (burial tombs). It is a very interesting experience to just come upon something like this. We have our guidebook but on such a long walk, it seems we are just taking in things as they come.
It was otherwise a quiet day. We walked over 10 miles before getting to Vetralla (our destination) and then enjoyed a garden lunch. The only other excitement of the day was in the afternoon, when we walked through the rather empty town and found the side door to the 12th century Church of San Francesco open. We walked into the deserted Duomo, admired the nave, the intricate geometric floor tiles and even the crypt. When we went to leave, we couldn’t figure out where the exit was and every door we tried was locked. We did figure it out but just in case you don’t hear from us, please alert the authorities that we may be locked in an ancient church somewhere on the Via Francigena.
Total mileage today - 12.7 miles
Via della Cava
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