We have been fortunate to stay in four different agriturismi on our journey so far. The word “agriturismo” is a combination of the words agriculture and tourism and is the term for an independently-owned farm that provides lodging and/or dinner to paying guests. The Italian government created this classification of lodging after WWII to help save rural architecture and small family farms. The owners get economic incentives but must serve a menu that uses a majority of locally grown produce. There are over 10,000 agriturismi in Italy, ranging from basic small restaurants to luxury properties.
Last night we stayed at La Selvella near Radicofani. Our room was a little casita named La Mimosa. Our terrace opened onto a courtyard where a huge tree shaded the outdoor dining area. The meat was prepared in the outdoor kitchen where there was also a wood-fired pizza oven. The total number of guests at dinner was 20, with our small tables intimately arranged in a circle around the tree. Twinkling lights, heaters and soft music made for a magical environment while a four course dinner was served. These working farms provide wonderful informal hospitality for a very reasonable price.
Our walk passed through the medieval hill town of Radicofani, the highest elevation on our route. This morning, we descended through the clouds as we left the hills of beautiful Tuscany behind us. We crossed into the region of Lazio, which is best known for its principle city Rome. Our destination for this segment was Aquapendente which was rather dreary and quiet on a Sunday afternoon. We were surprised that we were able to go down into the Crypt below the Basilica del Santo Sepulcro and have the place to ourselves. It was a little spooky when the motion detector lights went off.
I am still getting used to realizing so many sights along this route are from the 12th century or even earlier. There was an historical marker referring to Charlemagne and his troops being quarantined in the 7th century in a nearby village after being exposed to the Plague. As we wear our masks indoors everywhere here, that seemed rather ironic.
Yesterday’s mileage - 13.4 miles
Today’s mileage - 9.6 miles
Last views of Tuscany
Our casita at Agriturismo La Selvella.
An original farm building at La Selvella.
Farm to table food.
Outdoor kitchen and pizza ovens.
Dinner is served!
The rooster woke us up, this was the view from bed.
Walking down the Via Francigena from Radicofani.
River crossing
Elise (middle) from Genoa, Italy has been walking the Via from Calais, France. Vittorio (right) is from Milan and started from there.
Not the most comfortable spot for a lunch break.
Wow! You are already on the home stretch!!
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