Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Skiing in the Dolomites - 6 gennaio, 2015

There is a mountain range in the southern Alps known at the Dolomites (Dolomiti in Italian). It is an area that used to be part of Austria but after World War, became part of Italy and there is still a strong Austrian culture with German language and traditions. Our Italian friends recommended a lovely area called Alpi di Siusi for skiing, so we drove there for a post-Christmas visit for each of the past two years.

Alpe means pasture and this area is now a World Heritage site because it is the largest alpine meadow in Europe. The cows and goats who graze here are moved to lower pastures for the winter. Many of the farmhouses and small barns are still present but some are now restaurants and lodges for skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer. As at most European winter resorts, downhill skiing co-exists with winter hiking, sledding, nordic skiing and horse-drawn carriage rides.

 The Schlern (Dec. 2013)

A view so beautiful we decided to use it for our Christmas card

Last year (Christmas 2013), our daughter Annie was visiting from the United States so she was able to join us. We stayed at a small family-run hotel in the countryside outside of Suisi which provided both breakfast and dinner each day. The staff spoke German and Italian and most of our fellow guests were German speaking. Each morning, we caught a bus which took us to the cable car that goes up to the ski area. The day that we arrived, the region received over one meter of snow so the conditions were fantastic.

Annie's visit - December 2013  (photo by kind stranger)

This year (Christmas 2014), our son Patrick and his wife Lizzie came to visit from Colorado but were not able to bring the snowy weather with them. There has not been much snow in the Dolomites yet this year but even a mediocre snow day here is beautiful. We stayed in an apartment hotel in Castelrotto which is about 7 kilometers by car to the cable car. The trip was made even better when we met up with friends from Como who shared some delicious meals with us.

Patrick and Lizzie's visit - December 2014

A nice way to get back to your hotel.

The Dolomites have a characteristic jagged shape and pastel color

Riding up in the cloud (2013)

Annie above the cloud





Musicians waiting for the chairlift.

Entertainment at the Castelrotto Christmas market


The town of Castelrotto (Kastelruth in German)


A reminder that these are pastures in the summer.

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Natale (Christmas) 2104 - 31 decembre, 2014

We celebrated our second Christmas in Italy with our son Patrick and his wife Lizzie.  They arrived from the United States on Christmas Eve so their first view of Como was in the glow of holiday light displays. We went to our favorite traditional family-run restaurant in Moltrasio for Christmas dinner and enjoyed a walk together after dinner on the panoramic trail.  The day after Christmas is also a holiday here (St Stephen's Day) so we took the train to Milan and visited the cathedral (Duomo) and the Galleria. It was a sparkling blue sky day so we took advantage of the stair climb to the roof of the cathedral where we could see the snow covered Alps in the distance. 


Light display on Duomo and Teatro Sociale


Primi piatti (1st course) of Christmas dinner at Fagiano's


Patrick and Lizzie in Moltrasio (Christmas Day)



Milan Cathedral (Duomo)


On the roof of the Duomo


Galleria Vittoria Emanuel II

I have also enjoyed seeing the elaborate Nativity displays (in Italian "precepe") that are prominently displayed in many public places. Since there is no separation of church and state in Italy, these are often found in banks, train stations and restaurants. They range from elaborate ceramic figures to handmade creations. My favorite this year was the one at the bakery created inside of a loaf of bread. Overall, Christmas in Como seems to be less commercialized and more family oriented so I felt very lucky to have had family visitors here with whom to share it.






Basilica di San Fedele


Milano Nord Cadorna train station


Antica Panificio (made from bread)


Suora Giulia - Casa Vincenziana

Monday, December 22, 2014

Going Dutch - 20 december, 2014

When I heard David say he needed to go to The Netherlands on business, I decided to join him. That is the best part of being retired and having a low maintenance lifestyle; I lock our apartment door and off I go. We flew from Milan to Schipol Airport where Dave caught a train to his business location and I headed into Amsterdam for the day. Even thought the metropolitan area has a population of 1.5 million people, the central city is compact and easy to get around. There are over 100 kilometers of canals, three of which are in concentric rings around the heart of the city. Even on a winter day, it was a beautiful city to explore.





The canals and streets are lined with tall, narrow brick houses, many with traditional gables. Most are only between 18 and 24 feet wide and often have been divided by floor into apartments. The majority of structures in the central city have some protections as historical buildings so the neighborhoods look much like they must have 300 years ago. There is efficient and readily available public transportation including buses, a metro, trams and canal boats but the majority of people get around on their bicycles. The iamsterdam website said that 57% of Amsterdammers use their bike on a daily basis which is estimated at 881,000! There are separate bike lanes but it is the pedestrian that is most at risk in this city as many of the cyclists are fast and aggressive. I was amazed by the multi-level bicycle parking structures near the train stations and the swarms of bikes moving through the streets.

4 story parking garage for bicycles

creative parking style


Panoramic canal view

On Saturday, Dave joined me and we took the train to The Hague which is less than an hour south of Amsterdam. The Hague is the seat of the Dutch government, but Amsterdam is the official capital. Our destination was the Mauritshuis which is a small, elegant art museum with many paintings by the Dutch masters. It was my dream to see Vermeer's Girl with the Pearl Earring and I was enchanted when I got to see her up close. We returned to Amsterdam and the rest of the weekend was a cultural mash-up of more art exploration (the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum), meals in ethnic restaurants and a walk through the red-light district of legalized prostitution. There are some very interesting contrasts as every day life in the city seems efficient and organized yet naked women are sitting behind windows soliciting customers and marijauna smoke wafts out of some coffee shops.


Rembrandt's Night Watch at Rijksmuseum





Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring




Red Light District

We had one very important stop to make. I had promised my younger self long ago that someday I would visit the Anne Frank house. We joined other visitors from around the world to climb up the narrow staircases to the annex above and behind the canal house where the Frank family hid for two years during World War 2. It was a very moving experience, sad but affirming that this young woman's legacy continues to live on with current generations.





Anne Frank




I had one more day on my own to explore. I found the flower market in barges along a canal where one could imagine it was a spring day.  I watched children learning to ice skate in a city park and I took a canal boat ride where I had a front row seat to admire the architecture. I got out of the way when moms rode by on their bikes with one child in a seat on the front handlebars and another child in a seat on the back. I could definitely picture living in this city and now I understand their tourist slogan...."i amsterdam".






Monday, December 1, 2014

Thankgsiving Italian-Style - 1 decembre, 2014




"Over the river, and through the wood, to Grandfather's house we go...."


This time, "it was around the lake and up the hill, to a mountain restaurant we go...". I learned last year that Thanksgiving is a difficult holiday to spend away from our family and homeland because we have so many wonderful memories of hosting our extended family in Ohio and enjoying the holiday weekend together. So I was very happy when our friend Amy invited the Americans living in the area to celebrate Thanksgiving together at a restaurant in Brunate on the mountain above Como. She talked the restaurateur into roasting two turkeys and preparing traditional side dishes for our group on the Saturday after Thanksgiving.

There is a challenging, steep and curving road from Como to Brunate, so some of us took the option of riding the funicular (incline railway) up through the clouds to Brunate and then we walked down a lane for about 2 kilometers to the restaurant. The Ristorante Falchetto is in an old inn with hotel rooms on the 2nd floor and it has spectacular view of Lake Como. There ended up being 36 of us which included some Italian spouses and some English speaking friends, so we took over the restaurant for the day.


The funicular is celebrating its 120th birthday this month.


Arrival in Brunate


Scenic walk to the restaurant


The panoramic view

Roberto, our host went above and beyond to make it a special meal for us. With Amy's help, he had researched the recipes for the turkey, potatoes, dressing and even included cranberries as a side dish.  Several of our friends pitched in and helped serve the meal so we could all eat at the same time. Even though a couple of the dishes had their own unique taste, the overall experience felt authentic as the room was filled with laughter and friendly conversation. The kids worked on crafts, played games and even had their own rowdy kids' table. The pumpkin pie showed up looking very much like Italian "pumpkin" pizza, even cut into squares! 

The day lived up to its name; we felt truly thankful for a great meal, a roomful of wonderful friends and another memorable experience in Italy. 



Our family for the day!
Kids' table



American-sized portions


 Italian-style pumpkin pie














Ristorante Falchetto