Tuesday, September 7, 2021

On our way!

Finally we are walking! Yesterday, we caught a local train to the small hill town of San Miniato. We enjoyed dinner at a small cafe with a million dollar view of the Tuscan hills. This morning we were out the door at 8:00 AM and chose to join the trail outside of town to avoid walking on the road.  The trail is very well way-marked in this region and many people choose to walk on the Via for a week’s holiday. We met a young couple from Belgium who are walking to Siena and an Italian family of three with full backpacks.  Most of the day, it was just David and me, soaking it all in. 

Today’s forecast was for heat (85+) and bright sunshine so we focused on getting to the day’s destination as soon as possible. Most of the time we were on country lanes surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. When the trail went alongside a road, there was a guardrail barrier between us and the cars that made it feel very safe.











Today’s segment ended at 1:30 PM in Gambassi Terme  which is a hill town. That means the last 45 minutes was all uphill so we arrived in a sweaty mess. Luckily tonight’s lodging is unusually nice for our itinerary. It is an agriturismo (working farm) with lovely rooms and a sparkling blue swimming pool.  We are relaxing by that pool right now looking forward to a farm to table dinner.

Today’s walking mileage - 12.9 miles 

Monday, September 6, 2021

The Via Francigena - Walking to Rome

 September 6, 2021 - Hello again! 

I have taken a six year hiatus from posting on my blog but perhaps it is time to jump back in. David and I are beginning a three week journey on the Via Francigena in Italy and several people have expressed interest in following our progress. So these will be shorter, more frequent posts from the road.

The Via Francigena…. what is it?  The Via Francigena is an ancient route that the Archbishop of Canterbury “Sigeric” took from Canterbury, England to Rome in the year 990. (Yes, over a thousand years ago.) He kept a diary of this road to Rome which crossed France, Switzerland and the length of Italy which allowed historians in the modern age to rediscover it and designate it as a Cultural Route of Europe. 

When we walked a portion of the Camino di Santiago in Spain with Terry and Susan Walker two years ago, we met people who talked about the Via Francigena.  Then maybe it wasn’t a coincidence when my friend and pastor Kelly Brill shared the book A PILGRIMAGE TO ETERNITY by Timothy Egan with me. After reading about his experience on the Via Francigena, I was ready to go. Luckily David had also had a great experience on the Camino so he was up for the adventure. We began planning mid-pandemic hoping that once we were vaccinated, we would be able to go. We decided to focus on the segment from Lucca in Tuscany to Rome which should take about three weeks on foot. 

People walking these ancient routes are referred to as Pilgrims, or in Italy as “pellegrini”. Many pilgrims carry all of their belongings on their backs and find accommodations in hostels, abbeys and monasteries as they go. Full disclosure here - we have chosen a more supported method. We booked with a company that has made reservations for our lodging along the way, in small hotels and “agritrurismi” (working farms). Arrangements were also made to move our suitcases from place to place so we only are carrying a daypack. We had a great experience on the Camino with this method so are trying it again.

We arrived in Italy over a week ago and spent time in Como visiting dear friends and hiking on the steep hills in that region. We have practiced our Italian and remembered how much we love the food, wine and culture here. Yesterday, we took a train to Lucca in Tuscany where we picked up our Pilgrim credentials, a passport that we will get stamped along the way. This morning we received our first stamp in the Duomo (Cathedral) of San Martin. We will begin our walk just outside of San Miniato in the hills of Tuscany.

    

Lucca, Tuscany







Friday, September 4, 2015

Ithaka - 3 settembre, 2015


 
                                          ITHAKA
                                          
As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope the voyage is a long one.

May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.

Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.

Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.

And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.

Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.

                                           - C.P. Cavafy

                                                       (Translated by Edmund Keeley & Philip Sherrard)

Santorini
                            



Santorini


Santorini


Santorini



Lezzeno

Bellagio

Lago di Como

All photos (unless otherwise noted)  by Jeanne Hoopes  ©2015
This is the last post in this blog.  3 September, 2015

Santorini: 50 shades of Blue - 24 luglio, 2015

There is a phenomenon in physics which explains why the sky is blue. It is called "Rayleigh scattering" and it has to do with the tiny nitrogen and oxygen molecules in the air that scatter in all directions and cause the shortest blue wavelengths to be most visible.  There are other similar and related explanations as to why deep water looks so blue when the water is actually clear.  But no matter what the scientific explanation is, I will never forget the incredible blue-ness of Santorini, Greece.


     

Our hotel view

Greece had been on our wish list for years but when we realized that we were moving back to the United States this summer, it became a priority to go. We booked a ticket on the once a day direct flight from Milan to Santorini and paid for a non-refundable hotel stay; but then the next day we saw on the news that Greece's economic crisis had worsened and there was talk of kicking them out of the European Union. There were threats of unrest and closures. Luckily during the next few weeks, a compromise was reached that averted the crisis...for now. We were so happy that we could visit Greece, do our little part to help their economy and truly celebrate Dave's retirement.

Santorini, also known as Thera, is one of the Cyclades group within the Greek Islands. The island is the site of what was probably the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history. That eruption, 3600 years ago, left behind a huge caldera that forms the structure of today's Santorini. The large deep lagoon that was formed creates a protected harbor surrounded by steep walls. Our hotel sat on the edge of one of those walls, overlooking the caldera.

The flight into Santorini was dramatic as the approach came in over the caldera. We were met at the small airport by a driver who delivered us to our hotel, about 30 minutes away. We were dismayed to see that the hotel only had 8 units and was in a remote location. There did not seem to be a restaurant on site, although the manager had assured me by email that we could have dinner at the hotel. We ended up being pleasantly surprised by the Santorini hospitality. While there was not a restaurant per se, there was a chef who prepared delicious meals which were served to us at a table on our terrace overlooking the sea. The small number of units in the hotel allowed for very personalized service.

The town of Oia was a 15 minute bus ride away but we discovered there was a walking trail to get there as well. The next morning, we started out before the sun was too high in the sky and walked the few miles up over the ridge to town. It was the picture postcard town with whitewashed houses terraced into the hillside and white churches with gleaming blue roofs. There were lots of shops and restaurants but soon the town became mobbed with tours from anchored cruise ships. Later our hotel manager told us that the cruise ships don't help them at all economically because the passengers don't stay long enough to spend any money. They swarm the town, take photos, buy small souvenirs and leave. It was an interesting perspective that I hadn't thought of before. I was glad however, to leave the masses of tour groups and return to our quiet retreat.



The walk to Oia





























Oia









Our hotel host arranged for us to take a sunset sailing cruise which included the opportunity to see the  black sand beach and other landmarks. Another day, we had a personal photographic guide who took us to Akrotiri which is a Pompeii-like archeological site where a city buried in the 1650 B.C. eruption has been unearthed as well as to other spots for photo opportunities. I couldn't have been happier with the reasonably priced and perfectly matched activities that our host set up for us but the best activity by far,  was just hanging out at the hotel. Gazing into blueness - the sky, the water, the pool. Serene and relaxing....beautiful blue Santorini.

(Photo by Dave Hoopes)




(photo by hotel staff member)



Chamonix Redux - 10 luglio, 2015

Chamonix-Mont Blanc (or Chamonix, as it is more commonly known), is the quintessential mountain town. Where else can you sit in a French street café in the shadow of an almost 5,000 meter (15,800 ft) mountain? As the evening light fades, the peak of Mont Blanc lights up as the setting sun reflects on the snow. It is a scene like no other.

It is the oldest ski resort in France and the site of the first ever Winter Olympics in 1924. It is a year round mecca for adrenalin junkies who come to ski, mountain bike, or climb Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe. But in the summer, it is also a place for people who want to come and just enjoy the clean, cool mountain air. That's what called us back during the heat wave of mid-summer in Italy.

We have been to Chamonix before in both the winter and in the summer. But now, as we knew our time living in Europe was coming to an end, we took advantage of the fact that we could drive to Chamonix in a little over three hours. We were disappointed that our favorite grand old hotel (now a faded 2 star property), the Hotel Richemond was fully booked so we found a great last minute deal at a more modern hotel in the town center. Our small balcony overlooked the Mont Blanc massif and the rooftop hot tub was an unexpected pleasure.

Piazza fountain on a hot day in Aosta.


St Michel Church


Evening street scene

The only thing on our agenda was to relax and do some mountain hiking. One of the hikes we did was the Grand Balcone Nord trail which started with a ride on a historic cog railway to the old village of Montenvers where one gets a great view of the Mer du Glace glacier. Sadly, the glacier had noticeably decreased in size since our last visit five years ago. We hiked for several hours on the trail which traverses high above the village of Chamonix to the middle station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car which returned us to the valley.


Mer du glace


Gran Balcon Norte trail


Another great day of hiking was spent on the trail to Lac Blanc.  On the opposite side of the valley, we rode up the Flegere gondola and chairlift into the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Preserve where we hiked for several hours to a small lake. The reflection of Mont Blanc and the massif in the water made the walk there worth it. I was surprised to find a fully operating café there where we happily enjoyed a coffee and French pastry. Somehow, Europeans do a much better job of providing hospitality in the wilderness! We hiked back to the gondola which we rode down to the valley and caught a bus back to Chamonix.  One last night to enjoy dinner in Chamonix and bask in the afterglow of a Mont Blanc sunset.

Reflection of our cable car


Ski lifts get us to the best hiking trails



Hike to Lac Blanc





Lac Blanc


Mont Blanc behind us