Friday, September 4, 2015

Ithaka - 3 settembre, 2015


 
                                          ITHAKA
                                          
As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope the voyage is a long one.

May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.

Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.

Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.

And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.

Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.

                                           - C.P. Cavafy

                                                       (Translated by Edmund Keeley & Philip Sherrard)

Santorini
                            



Santorini


Santorini


Santorini



Lezzeno

Bellagio

Lago di Como

All photos (unless otherwise noted)  by Jeanne Hoopes  ©2015
This is the last post in this blog.  3 September, 2015

Santorini: 50 shades of Blue - 24 luglio, 2015

There is a phenomenon in physics which explains why the sky is blue. It is called "Rayleigh scattering" and it has to do with the tiny nitrogen and oxygen molecules in the air that scatter in all directions and cause the shortest blue wavelengths to be most visible.  There are other similar and related explanations as to why deep water looks so blue when the water is actually clear.  But no matter what the scientific explanation is, I will never forget the incredible blue-ness of Santorini, Greece.


     

Our hotel view

Greece had been on our wish list for years but when we realized that we were moving back to the United States this summer, it became a priority to go. We booked a ticket on the once a day direct flight from Milan to Santorini and paid for a non-refundable hotel stay; but then the next day we saw on the news that Greece's economic crisis had worsened and there was talk of kicking them out of the European Union. There were threats of unrest and closures. Luckily during the next few weeks, a compromise was reached that averted the crisis...for now. We were so happy that we could visit Greece, do our little part to help their economy and truly celebrate Dave's retirement.

Santorini, also known as Thera, is one of the Cyclades group within the Greek Islands. The island is the site of what was probably the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history. That eruption, 3600 years ago, left behind a huge caldera that forms the structure of today's Santorini. The large deep lagoon that was formed creates a protected harbor surrounded by steep walls. Our hotel sat on the edge of one of those walls, overlooking the caldera.

The flight into Santorini was dramatic as the approach came in over the caldera. We were met at the small airport by a driver who delivered us to our hotel, about 30 minutes away. We were dismayed to see that the hotel only had 8 units and was in a remote location. There did not seem to be a restaurant on site, although the manager had assured me by email that we could have dinner at the hotel. We ended up being pleasantly surprised by the Santorini hospitality. While there was not a restaurant per se, there was a chef who prepared delicious meals which were served to us at a table on our terrace overlooking the sea. The small number of units in the hotel allowed for very personalized service.

The town of Oia was a 15 minute bus ride away but we discovered there was a walking trail to get there as well. The next morning, we started out before the sun was too high in the sky and walked the few miles up over the ridge to town. It was the picture postcard town with whitewashed houses terraced into the hillside and white churches with gleaming blue roofs. There were lots of shops and restaurants but soon the town became mobbed with tours from anchored cruise ships. Later our hotel manager told us that the cruise ships don't help them at all economically because the passengers don't stay long enough to spend any money. They swarm the town, take photos, buy small souvenirs and leave. It was an interesting perspective that I hadn't thought of before. I was glad however, to leave the masses of tour groups and return to our quiet retreat.



The walk to Oia





























Oia









Our hotel host arranged for us to take a sunset sailing cruise which included the opportunity to see the  black sand beach and other landmarks. Another day, we had a personal photographic guide who took us to Akrotiri which is a Pompeii-like archeological site where a city buried in the 1650 B.C. eruption has been unearthed as well as to other spots for photo opportunities. I couldn't have been happier with the reasonably priced and perfectly matched activities that our host set up for us but the best activity by far,  was just hanging out at the hotel. Gazing into blueness - the sky, the water, the pool. Serene and relaxing....beautiful blue Santorini.

(Photo by Dave Hoopes)




(photo by hotel staff member)



Chamonix Redux - 10 luglio, 2015

Chamonix-Mont Blanc (or Chamonix, as it is more commonly known), is the quintessential mountain town. Where else can you sit in a French street café in the shadow of an almost 5,000 meter (15,800 ft) mountain? As the evening light fades, the peak of Mont Blanc lights up as the setting sun reflects on the snow. It is a scene like no other.

It is the oldest ski resort in France and the site of the first ever Winter Olympics in 1924. It is a year round mecca for adrenalin junkies who come to ski, mountain bike, or climb Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe. But in the summer, it is also a place for people who want to come and just enjoy the clean, cool mountain air. That's what called us back during the heat wave of mid-summer in Italy.

We have been to Chamonix before in both the winter and in the summer. But now, as we knew our time living in Europe was coming to an end, we took advantage of the fact that we could drive to Chamonix in a little over three hours. We were disappointed that our favorite grand old hotel (now a faded 2 star property), the Hotel Richemond was fully booked so we found a great last minute deal at a more modern hotel in the town center. Our small balcony overlooked the Mont Blanc massif and the rooftop hot tub was an unexpected pleasure.

Piazza fountain on a hot day in Aosta.


St Michel Church


Evening street scene

The only thing on our agenda was to relax and do some mountain hiking. One of the hikes we did was the Grand Balcone Nord trail which started with a ride on a historic cog railway to the old village of Montenvers where one gets a great view of the Mer du Glace glacier. Sadly, the glacier had noticeably decreased in size since our last visit five years ago. We hiked for several hours on the trail which traverses high above the village of Chamonix to the middle station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car which returned us to the valley.


Mer du glace


Gran Balcon Norte trail


Another great day of hiking was spent on the trail to Lac Blanc.  On the opposite side of the valley, we rode up the Flegere gondola and chairlift into the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Preserve where we hiked for several hours to a small lake. The reflection of Mont Blanc and the massif in the water made the walk there worth it. I was surprised to find a fully operating café there where we happily enjoyed a coffee and French pastry. Somehow, Europeans do a much better job of providing hospitality in the wilderness! We hiked back to the gondola which we rode down to the valley and caught a bus back to Chamonix.  One last night to enjoy dinner in Chamonix and bask in the afterglow of a Mont Blanc sunset.

Reflection of our cable car


Ski lifts get us to the best hiking trails



Hike to Lac Blanc





Lac Blanc


Mont Blanc behind us





Beautiful Barcelona - 5 luglio, 2015

Everyone I know who has visited Barcelona seems to decide that it is their new favorite city. We were anxious to see what everyone was talking about so when our friend Lauren visited us, we joined her for a long weekend there. We weren't disappointed; it is a vibrant and exciting place that amazed us with its colorful public art, bodacious architecture and welcoming neighborhoods. All of this and easy access to clean, beautiful public beaches along the Mediterranean Sea.

Dave and I flew with Lauren and her sister Erin on EasyJet from Milan direct to Barcelona. Though AirBnB we rented a 2 bedroom apartment for three nights in El Born neighborhood. It was an adventure figuring out how to get into the apartment after first picking up the key in a bar across the street and then entering a rather scary entrance hall and trying to figure out which apartment was ours. We were pleasantly surprised to find a spacious and comfortable space inside that was right in the middle of all the action. The pedestrian street below us was filled with people until 3 AM.

Looking out from our apartment


Street view from our balcony.

To begin to understand the culture of Barcelona, one must understand the culture of Catalonia as it exists within Spain. Catalan is a primary language spoken (along with Spanish) and there is great pride in the Catalonian heritage as evidenced by the many flags we saw displayed. The  Summer Olympics of 1992 which were held in Barcelona, not only helped the city modernize and gain international acclaim, it allowed the Catalan culture to become more recognized on an international level.

Tapas - small plates shared at dinner

We explored the city the first day by taking the "hop on-hop off" bus tour. Sitting in the open top of the double decker bus gave us a great view of the neighborhoods as we criss-crossed the city. The next day, we went by foot and by metro back to the places that piqued our interest. The main attraction for most visitors is the late architect Antonio Gaudi's unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Família. At first glance it looks like a huge sandcastle made of dripping sand. The intricate detail of the facades becomes clear as one approaches the church but it is somewhat disconcerting that it is still very much under construction. The interior is nearly completed and is stunning as the sunlight coming in the stained glass windows absolutely fills the space with vividly colored illumination. 

After the cathedral, one can't help but be captivated by Gaudi's spirit of creativity. We visited several of his other creations (Le Pedrera and Casa Batlló) as well as Park Guell which is an entire outdoor space designed by him. Throughout the city, we saw many other unique buildings with bold architecture  and interesting details. The colors and whimsical nature in combination with the sunshine of Barcelona make it seem like a very positive and creative environment. The streets and beaches were crowded with tourists who also all seemed to be in love with Barcelona. 

Sagrada Família - a work in process


Breathtaking interior of Sagrada Famiiia



Le Pedrera (Gaudi) 1906, also known as "the rock pile"




Casa Batlló (Gaudi) 1877, 1904


Reminder of the 1992 Olympic games held in Barcelona


Born neighborhood

 
Building castells or human towers are a Catalan tradition.



Park Guell






Reminded me of Dr. Seuss



Even our airport hotel had edgy architecture